French food critic François Simon visited Ginza.
His destination: the long-established Shiseido Parlour Restaurant.
There, he encountered a dish in which childhood memory quietly overlapped with the self who had come, this time, to Japan.

This short film captures his time at the restaurant, alongside glimpses of the city of Ginza.
And in the interview that follows, he puts into words what had gone unspoken then.

A quiet journey, drawn from a single plate.

The Ginza district in Tokyo—it captivates me.
Why?
Because I read it as a place of transhumance.
A passage.
An opening.
An exchange.

Just watch a pedestrian crossing for a few minutes.
It reminds us that cuisine, fashion, cosmetics—
they are spaces where the world moves,
where it trades, transforms, travels.

It crosses streets, it crosses oceans—
to reach another pavement,
another land.

And the Shiseido restaurant—
what makes it so compelling
is that it operates on something wondrous:
elegance.

Elegance, which comes from elegere: to choose.
It is, at heart,
a movement,
a passage.

To speak with a spirit unlike your own…

Excerpted and translated from François Simon’s narration in the video. 

Interview to François Simon

In your narration, you describe Ginza as “a place that captivates you.” Do you remember your first impression of the neighborhood?

Yes, very clearly. The weather was beautiful, and what struck me most was the play of colors and light.

I had trouble putting my feelings into words right away. It took time—and many questioning silences—before I slowly realized that this neighborhood is a place of transhumance, of crossing paths, where civilizations meet and respect each other.

Now, I walk through Ginza with delight—and with that same quiet, smiling silence.
Ginza speaks of Japan’s opening to the world. And perhaps that is one of the most beautiful things that can happen—to a country, to a person, even to a plant: to open.

When you tasted the sole meunière with hazelnut and herb sauce at Shiseido Parlor, you described it as a “journey” and something “fleeting.” Could you tell us more about what you felt in that moment?

This dish is one of my favorites. I love it because it brings back memories of my childhood by the sea. Since then, it has become my signature dish—my reference point.

So when the sole arrived at the Parlor, something shifted.
My childhood met my adult self, France encountered Japan again, and my personal life (the mother of our children is Japanese) brushed against my professional life.

It was brief—fleeting, indeed—and glorious.

In your narration, you said: “Elegance is choosing.” What does elegance mean to you?

To choose is often to define oneself.
It’s about removing what is superfluous, like a sculptor chiseling away at a block of marble.

During your visit, you traveled slowly from Korea to Japan by boat and train. Why did you choose this way of traveling?

Most likely because slowness allows us to understand better.
I compare it to fat in French cuisine—it slows and deepens the flavor.
Seaweed in Japanese cuisine does something similar.

Traveling slowly—even to the edge of absurdity—opens new spaces, multiplies perception.
I’ve never been so happy while traveling.

And a small but important detail: I was alone.

Your words often carry a poetic resonance. Where do you think this sensitivity comes from?

Because words have power—when we go out and gather them.
You have to seek them, like luck. It never comes on its own.

I love it when words arrive unexpectedly.
They allow me to widen my world.
And perhaps, I should dare even more.

François Simon
François Simon is one of France’s leading food critics. For over thirty years, he wrote culinary columns for Le Figaro, captivating readers with his poetic and philosophical style. Known for offering a perspective distinct from Michelin, he explores the culture of food and restaurants through a unique critical lens. He continues to express his sensibility around taste and memory through writing and videos.
@francoissimon
https://www.simonsays.fr/

Taro Okagawa
After graduating from the Department of Film at Osaka University of Arts, Taro Okagawa began working as a freelance video director. He has worked across a wide range of genres including music videos, commercials, and documentaries, and has recently expanded his practice into the fields of fashion and art. His work is known for its delicate sense of observation and quiet humour.
@tarookagawa
https://www.tarookagawa.com/